Out of the Harbour and Turn Right

By Howard and Mary Williams

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Preface

Grangemouth to Whithorn Whithorn to Holyhead Holyhead to Milford Haven Milford Haven to The Scillies
Scillies to Dartmouth Dartmouth to Chichester Chichester to Ramsgate Ramsgate to Spurn Head

Spurn Head to Aberdour

Appendices

Milford Haven to The Scillies

For explanations of pictures move mouse pointer over picture. To see thumbnail pictures in greater detail click on the pictures

Route chart

Day 25 Monday 5th June. Castlebeach to Padstow – 64 NM

After a short and disturbed night (we were woken several times by the wake of passing tankers) we eventually stowed the anchor at 0425 and motored out into the Bristol Channel which was flat calm in the windless conditions. We had only motored for about 5 miles when the first Dolphin school came alongside and for the next few hours we were rarely unescorted for more than a few minutes as school after school visited us. Each school played for a while, then away before the next arrived. I was concerned that one of them might hit the prop and wipe us both out, but they obviously had more sense and the whole display was one of the most spectacular I have ever witnessed at sea. During the trip I must have seen at least 250 of these wonderful creatures, and it was so brilliant that they are surviving in such numbers.  

Dolphins are elusive beasts Dolphins are elusive beasts Dolphins are elusive beasts

Although the sun poured down relentlessly our long trip was under power as there was insufficient winds to even ghost along all day. We took a break from the incessant engine when we had lunch, a mistake as it was probably the main reason why we had to spend the night in Padstow estuary rather than Padstow harbour.

As the harbour was tidal, I called the harbourmaster when we were about 10 miles out and he confirmed that we had no chance of the inner harbour, but would probably make the outer harbour and to give him a call when we were closer. This we tried to do at about 1620 when we had crossed the bar into the sound, but we could not contact any of the staff and it is my belief that they all went home early. Without knowledge of the channel and the depths involved we twice ran aground on sandbanks in the estuary and eventually anchored up in the deeper part of the river.

Padstow was a pleasant stop, particularly if you can get into the inner harbour. After a gentle row ashore we had a quite evening drinking local real ales and watching the sun go down ….

Padstow approach Padstow Bay Padstow Bar

Day 26 Tuesday 6th June, Padstow to St Ives via Newquay – 38 NM

Padstow was probably the last opportunity for diesel before the trip to the Scillies, so we were up and ashore at 0830 outside the harbour office with our empty cans. It took forever to get them to filled, and then they were insistent that I pay £14-50 for an overnight stay. Apparently, this is a flat charge and it doesn’t matter whether or not you anchor in the river, pick up a visitors mooring (which was news to us) or tie up in the inner harbour, it was all the same. I reminded the harbourmaster that I had no service from them whatsoever, could not get them on the VHF when they promised they would be available and for such non-existent service I refused to pay. They eventually agreed that the service they provided was not up to scratch and we were on our way, an hour later than we had planned, stowing the anchor and making way at 1012.We successfully negotiated the bar and soon had the sails up making the most of the NE2/3 winds, but they soon died on us and we once again resorted to the engine. 

St Ives

At 1330 we anchored off one of the beaches in Newquay for lunch, but decided to move on because of the continuous amplified music and chat coming from one of the beaches and weighed anchor at 1410. For the next 4 hours we mostly motored, with brief interludes when the wind got up sufficient to give us 4 knots of speed, and we eventually arrived at St Ives at 1815. With no water in the harbour we anchored about 200 metres off the entrance where we spent the night with several other boats. 

St Ives is a wonderful place, with interesting buildings, narrow streets and warm, friendly people. We vowed to return and book a cottage large enough for the family.

Newquay St Ives harbour St Ives harbour St Ives West bay
Lands End

Day 27 Wednesday 7th June, St Ives to Hugh Town – 46 NM

We established the night before that we had  to be in the vicinity of Lands End by 1500 – 1600 to take advantage of the tides, so it was a leisurely and lazy start the next day, wandering the streets again of brilliant St Ives and eating an early Cornish Pasty lunch before making way at 1240.

There was not a breath of wind to disturb the sea as we left, so we did not even raise the sail, only doing so when we entered the Traffic Separation Scheme off lands end at 1645, just to make us more visible as the visibility was down to 2 miles. 

With the radar on I could clearly see a ship bearing down on us some 4 miles away, and just as I spotted him I heard a message on channel 16 from a foreign voice reporting my existence in the shipping lane to the coastguard. The coastguard gave the call short shrift, saying that they had me clearly on the radar, I was crossing the lane at right angles and unless he altered course he was going to miss me by at least half a mile. It was nice to hear!! 

Our initial plan was to aim for the north of the Scillies and make our way to the Hangman's Rock anchorage off New Grimsby, between Bryher and Tresco islands, but the 1700 inshore forecast put paid the that, predicting fresh to strong SE winds. We then decide to change route and to make for Hugh Town, where we could rest secure on a mooring in the sure shelter of the bay. We decided that to enter Hugh Town using the Crow channel was definitely not a good idea close to low water, so we took the longer route south of St Mary’s and into Hugh town that way, arriving at 2130.

Towards Lands End Towards Lands End Scillies approach
Route Chart to Hugh Town

Day 28 Thursday 8th June, Hugh Town

During the night the winds built from the SE and we woke to steady winds of 20 knots gusting to over 30, and although we were well sheltered the fetch across the bay from the main harbour wall was sufficient to ensure a wet dinghy ride to the town centre. Although it was quite windy it was sunny and warm and we spent a wonderful day wandering the north of the Island, taking in the wonderful sandy beaches and rocky promontories.

Day 29 Friday 9th June, Hugh Town

Awoke to another very breezy day and to a new French visitor on the mooring next to us. It was a sailing boat about 25 feet long with a short un-stayed mast that must have been keel stepped to remain upright. 

Mary was convinced that, with a name of “Telescopique” that this was some new French sailing boat with a mast that was telescopic, cranked up to a height depending on wind, a novel way of reefing sails. I just thought it had a broken mast and didn’t think anything of it until that evening when we were watching the news on our little LCD television. Lo and Behold there was the boat on the regional news. Unknown to us the lifeboat had been out three times in the night to rescue three foundering French yachts competing in their own version of the Fastnet race. It was windier than we thought!! 

We had another day wandering the beautiful island, watching the big sea, glad that we were not out there.

Hugh Town Gig St Mary's St Mary's St Mary's
St Mary's St Mary's Hell Bay Hell Bay

Day 30 Saturday 10th June, Hugh Town to New Grimsby – 5 NM

Early start this morning, casting off our mooring at 0730 to catch the tide for a short trip to New Grimsby. The trip was short, but as there are innumerable rocks and sandbanks, which are totally dry even on a neep tide, so it was a bit of a dry mouthed passage. We made it with about 50 cms at the shallowest point, but when we had tied up to a visitors mooring in the bay we noticed that a boat behind us had not made it, caught firmly on a sand bank. We later saw the crew in the pub – well, there was no point in staying on board, was there? 

We wandered wonderful Tresco for the day, arriving back on the boat early evening at close to high water. The wind had picked up again and with a strong current the motion of the boat was quite uncomfortable, and this continued for the next three hours, when the water level dropped and the sandbar to the SE once again emerged and the motion became manageable. We expected a rough night, but it was quiet.

Day 31 Sunday 11th June, New Grimsby

Today we took the dinghy to one of the beautiful parts of the Scillies – Bryher Island, where we spent the day walking leisurely around the island, pausing in Hell Bay for coffee and scones. We bought freshly dug new potatoes, Sugar Peas and Strawberries picked less than two hours earlier. Dinner that night was exceptional.

Bryher Island Bryher Island Hangmans Rock anchorage New Grimsby
Old Grimsby Old Grimsby Tresco Gardens Tresco Gardens

 Tresco Garden Figureheads

Figureheads, Tresco Gardens Figureheads, Tresco Gardens Figureheads, Tresco Gardens Figureheads, Tresco Gardens

Figureheads, Tresco Gardens

 

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