Out of the Harbour and Turn Right

By Howard and Mary Williams

Chapter 5 Scillies to Dartmouth

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Day 32 Monday 12th June, New Grimsby to Helford River – 58 NM We slipped the mooring at 0630 to tie up alongside New Grimsby harbour wall to take on  water before setting sail north out of the channel between the islands and along the north shores of the Scillies, motor sailing in a SSW2. A French boat with a crew of 4 accompanied us, and their main aim seemed to be to catch their breakfast, lunch and dinner, no doubt spending the day back at the mooring at Hangman's Rock as we had seen them come and go the previous two mornings. Once clear of the islands we set course for Wolf Rock and entered the Traffic Separation Scheme at 1025, relying increasingly on the engine as the wind gradually died. There was a strong westerly Atlantic swell running of at least 3 metres, making it difficult for the Autohelm, made more difficult by a strong tide of at least 2 knots. Just after Wolf Rock we noticed a racing pigeon had joined us, and kept us company for the next few hours, flying off when we got close to Lizard Point. As we rounded the Lizard the wind picked up first from the SW and then from the NW and we finished the day with a glorious 90 minutes of exhilarating sailing. We finally dropped anchor in West Durgan Bay, about one mile east of Helford village at 1925. We had arrived back on the mainland, found a brilliant anchorage for the night and had an exceptionally good nights sleep.

Day 33 Tuesday 13th June, Helford River to River Fal via Falmouth – 12 NM An early start for no great reason other than it was another wonderful day, and we weighed anchor at 0725 for a gentle sail to one of the great rivers and one of the great ports – the river Fal and Falmouth. Although it was only 6 miles we sailed it in a SW2, eventually arriving at the Town Pontoons at 0925. The town pontoons are used as a kind of “Boat Park” and parking for the day was a mere £6.

We had a wonderfully relaxing wander around the town, picking up essential food and chandlery before setting off up river to a place recommended for their cream teas. We thought we were doing wonderfully well in sticking to the tight channel upriver and eventually found the restaurant/bar/café recommended, tying up to the nearby visitors moorings and consuming a wonderful cream tea. We decided that there could not be a better place to stay the night, and paid the £6 mooring fee and had just relaxing over coffee after dinner when, to our great surprise, around the bend came a big tanker, en-route, no doubt, for Truro! We both thought we were doing so well in getting where we were without running aground that to say we were made to feel very small by this new experience. Still, I suppose we did it at mid-tide!

Day 34 Wednesday 14^th June, River Fal to Polkerris via Gorran Haven and Mevagissy – 27 NM 

We slipped our moorings at 0745 and once we had cleared the first half mile down river we hoisted the sails for a leisurely sail in a NE1/2. Out into the open sea and sailing at about 1-2 knots we hung out the fishing line, successfully landing 3 mackerel out of 6 before once again the wind disappeared and we resorted yet again to engine.

At 1230 we dropped anchor off Gorran Haven, taking a short trip ashore before upping anchor at 1355 for Mevagissy, arriving there at 1525. At Mevagissy the pilot told us to pay the £2 parking fee to the parking attendant for the harbour car park, which we duly did and we had a delightful hour wandering this lovely town.

At 1635 we were once again off, this time to Polkerris, a few miles SE of St Austell, where we anchored for the night at 1715. That evening we barbequed our mackerel on the harbour wall before having a quiet night on a flat calm sea. 

Day 35 Thursday 15^th June, Polkerris to Plymouth via Looe – 29 NM

With an E3 to set us on our way, we upped anchor at 0935 and set sat sail for Polperro, a small village some 9 nm east of Polkerris, but at the narrow entrance and with an onshore breeze it did not look very welcoming, so we bottled out, making for Looe instead, anchoring off in the bay at 1340.

We went ashore and wandered around this delightful town, getting back to the boat and upping anchor at 1600, sailing off on a SW1/2. At 1635 this died away completely, so with engine on we motored into Plymouth, entering the harbour at 1740. We crossed the harbour making for the channel to the west of Drake Island and thereafter to Sutton Marina and what would have been the most expensive night so far when Mary noticed that there was a small vessel anchorage off the Hoe. We decided to make for it and anchored in 8 metres at 1920, fully expecting someone to move us on. Over dinner, taken al-fresco, we watched bathers in the public bathing facility close by before rowing ashore and taking the air.

		In many ways our anchorage was ideally situated for the town and facilities, but being near the main shipping channel I was afraid that we would be kept awake by the wash from the frequent comings and goings. To a large extent my fears were unfounded, as when the big Brittany Ferries ship passed by close enough for me to throw a stone into the bridge the wake was hardly noticed. However, the pilot boat was not so good. We did, however, have a great night asleep. Day 36 Friday 16th June, Plymouth to Salcombe via the River Yealm and Hope Cove – 24 NM We weighed anchor after a leisurely start and at 0925 started motoring up the eastside of the estuary into the open sea with not a breath of wind to help us.
Turning east, and hoping for some wind, our first port of call for coffee was the river Yealm, just 6 miles from Plymouth.  Entering the river is via a narrow channel to the east of the river mouth, the rest of the entrance being protected by a bar that runs across 80% of the river. On that sunny morning the river valley was quite stunning, and I wondered if this river was going to be different from the other rivers we had visited. However, as soon as we had rounded the first significant bend it was evident that the Yealm was just like the rest – stuffed full of boats, and there was at least 100 boats moored towards the nearest jetty. No doubt there were hundreds more around the bend ahead.

We picked up a visitor mooring, had our coffee break and with a southerly wind suddenly materialising out of no where we prepared to make way. We slipped our mooring at 1100 and were sailing 20 minutes later in a S2, making 3 knots towards Hope Cove, just around the headland from Salcombe. At 1325 we dropped the anchor off the rocks at Hope cove, relaxing in the sunshine before moving on at 1450. The wind by now had increased and backed to SW4 and we had a cracking ride around the headland into Salcombe, pulling into the town quay pontoon for water at 1710.

Although most people were allowed an hour of free parking at the town pontoon, the Harbourmaster’s staff were onto us with the same enthusiasm as an Edinburgh traffic warden short of bookings, reminding us of the time limits and asking us where we were going to moor for the night. We hastily went ashore for some vittles, but the butchers shop was shut and were directed to the only corner shop in the place. Apart from milk and bread we had a better stock on board the boat, and after buying some expensive milk and sliced white bread legged it back to the boat before the harbourmasters agents could call in the boaty equivalent of the car removal wagon so favoured by the yellow meanies.

We had hardly moved a hundred metres when we were again accosted by one of the harbourmasters staff wanting to know what we wanted to do for the night. We had thought of anchoring up river, and mentioned this, but he suggested that we anchored just across the river near the east beach. This was a wonderful position as we had the best of both worlds and as soon as the hook was down he was alongside once again. Charge for anchoring? We were told this was half the price of a visitors mooring, which is £2 per metre, so for our boat the overnight fee was £9. We asked what facilities there were and the real answer was none. “What did we expect?” said the harbourmasters representative. “Showers, toilet, diesel?” we replied. “Council toilets on the pier, refuse in the bins, showers courtesy of the boat club a mile away, £1 a go. Diesel barge comes next month” he said. “This is Chelsea by the sea, you know!” Bet they don’t have corned beef hash for dinner in Chelsea!

Day 37 Saturday 17^th June, Salcombe to Dartmouth – 18 NM

A short trip today – we were meeting an old friend who lives part time in Dartmouth and arranged to meet with him for lunch. We set off in good spirits, weighing anchor at 0915 and after we had crossed the Salcombe bar we set sail in a SE 2/3 and for the next 2 hours had a leisurely sail. At 1135 and with wind that had disappeared we switched on the engine again for the last stretch into the river, tying up alongside a 10 metre catamaran, which was alongside one of the town pontoons.

After a guided walk around the town, a pub lunch of note with Ray, our friends husband, and coffee overlooking the river from Ray’s balcony it was back to the boat to cook dinner for us all. A grand day to remember.

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