Out of the Harbour and Turn Right

By Howard and Mary Williams

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Preface

Grangemouth to Whithorn Whithorn to Holyhead Holyhead to Milford Haven Milford Haven to The Scillies
Scillies to Dartmouth Dartmouth to Chichester Chichester to Ramsgate Ramsgate to Spurn Head

Spurn Head to Aberdour

Appendices

Introduction

This is the narrative log of the vessel Megstone’s voyage around the South of Britain, a journey covering 1569 nautical miles.

We started on Friday 12th May and returned on July 12th. In all we were away for 59 days, and this log provides a short description of every days activity. For statistic lovers the facts are all in the appendices. 

Thanks to …

We met a huge number of people along the way, far to many to list here. For those that gave us useful local information, help and assistance we would like to take this opportunity to thank them all, but special mention must be made to: 

  • Dave Woodall, who loaned us a selection of his UK waters admiralty charts;
  • John Henderson, for keeping everyone informed of our proress
  • Andy Carnduff who assisted me in getting the boat into the canal
  • The skipper and crew of to vessel Wild Eve, who helped raise the mast at Bowling
  • The entire British Waterways canal crew for getting us through the canal
  • The Coxswain at Portpatrick for his invaluable assistance and the loan of vital missing charts
  • The Harbourmaster of the Isle of Whithorn for being a great bloke
  • Local people at the Itchenor pub for helping me understand the Chichester Bar.
  • Wilkinson Sails, who came to Dover marina to pick up my torn headsail within 30 minutes of asking for assistance and returning it fixed later that day at Ramsgate

Notes on the voyage

The time we had allocated for the trip was a start in mid-April and finishing mid-July, when Mary had made a commitment to join our daughter in a trip to Sweden. We had also decided to go clockwise down the east coast, because if we were running short of time I felt that it was a much pleasanter place to have to leave the boat on the west coast rather than the east. 

On this basis we had started planning our route down the east coast, easy when you have a laptop based chart plotting system and you get sent out to Albania on an EC contract (you don’t have to carry shedloads of charts around); the planning could be done there.. With the convenience of the Internet we were also able to order some supplementary charts and pilots for delivery after we got home. We didn’t buy full chart coverage as we knew that our friend and fellow Moody owner Dave Woodall was prepared to loan us any UK waters Admiralty chart we wanted, but we also know that they were old and we thought that the Imray’s charts would give us up to date information. Our advance purchases therefore included pilots and Imray coverage to Dover (except for the bit between Lowestoft and the Humber, and as we didn’t really plan to spend much time in this area we settled for Reeds to give us the necessary information). Our reasoning here was that we may as well see how it all went first and then buy more charts as and when we needed them after Dover. We are glad that we didn’t buy any more – the Imray charts were extremely disappointing. 

Go West, not East…

I think it was Dave Woodall that first pointed out to us that it made more sense to go west to better utilise the prevailing winds, particularly in the channel and east coast, and we decided at the last minute to do exactly that - through the Forth Clyde canal then anticlockwise round the rest, and we only had to suffer the prevailing winds for the first few hundred miles. (For info. we when we were in Chichester Harbour we were told that the prevailing winds in the channel have, for the past few years, been easterlies). 

A late start … 

Our trip to Albania put paid to our planned start date as the earliest we could get home was the 29th April and we had loads of stuff to do to the boat. We have never worked harder at getting the boat ready or completed it in such a short time, and we were ready to go on the 10th of May but had neeped ourselves in the harbour. We eventually set off “out of the harbour and turn right” on 11th of May 2006 for the short trip to Port Edgar and the stepping of the mast. 

Passage planning and the Detail Devil …  

All our stages were carefully planned taking account of all information available to us. This was derived from:
  • Entire chart coverage of the UK (except for two parts of the Irish Sea between the Isle of Mann and England, which we borrowed from the RNLI at Portpatrick)
  • Pilots for all sections of the UK except for the area Lowestoft to Bridlington
  • The 2006 Reeds for the UK
  • A laptop loaded with chart plotter software and connected to a mouse style GPS receiver
  • Megstone’s own standalone GPS, a Garmin 158
  • A GPS repeater fitted in the cockpit

 

In all cases we carefully planned our passages generally the night before we set out, paying particular interest on the tidal flows in the area.

To achieve this we took account of pilot information and Reeds to ensure we understood the local situation, we marked up the tidal flows with tide times, chart information from the plotter and, of course, weather information from the coastguard. Every day we sailed we updated in pencil the tidal flow diagrams with HW Dover and HW local and marked up the tidal flows so we always knew the state of the tide.

When we had planned in rough what we wanted to do we then planned the course using the chart plotter, which gave us GPS coordinates and it also confirmed for us the best time to start for the fastest voyage. All coordinates were written down in hard copy and then used to input course information into the GPS and/or onto the charts, and when that was done the GPS findings were checked against the plotter.  

The main point behind this was security of information and ease of use. The chart plotter could go down (and the laptop frequently crashed) without affecting our course. The GPS could go down and we still had paper records a hand-held GPS and paper charts. Real paranoia but safe and if we loaded all information into the GPS the night before we could concentrate on the day on getting everything ready to go without worrying where we were going. We also made it a rule that we would always navigate out of harbours, bays and estuaries using the pilot information, rather than rely on GPS positions. Thankfully we never had to use the hand held GPS.

Our own passage rules … 

There were really only a few: 

  • Life jackets in the cockpit and on deck at all times
  • No mast, anchor or sail adjustment without a harness
  • Lifejacket and harness when steering alone in moderate or rough seas
  • No night time sailing
  • No setting out in F6 and above

During the course of our passage there were cases where we broke our own rules, sailing into Weymouth at night and the planned night time sail from Lowestoft to Spurn Head. We also felt that if we didn’t set out from Portpatrick in a F6 we’d still be there, and we experienced on several occasions winds in excess of F7 but never gale F8. In the vast majority of cases the wind never materialised in the direction or strength predicted in the forecast, much to our annoyance.

Log information …

The distance covered on a daily basis was derived from the GPS, but this was only after the trip through the canal. At the start of our voyage we discovered that the mechanical log was under reading by at least 25%, though this changed to approximately right as time went by. We put this down to over rigorous antifouling on the log propeller that eventually wore off, but the log finally gave up the ghost at Exmouth when the cable snapped, so all readings after that had to be GPS derived, so in order to be consistent all distances became GPS derived ones. This meant that the log covered distance over the ground, with any reference to speed being the Speed over the Ground. 

Statistics. 

Overall statistics, costs, mooring information and loads more can be found in the appendices.

 

Next section - Chapter 1