Out of the Harbour and Turn Left

Day 23 – 26^th June – Gairloch to Badachro – 2.5 NM

After a leaisurly morning we slipped our moorings at 1430 and after filling up with diesel we motored across the loch to Badachro on the south of Gairloch. The pub/restaurant in the village advertises two swinging moorings and as it was our intent to eat there that evening we took a broad sweep around the mooring area but were unable to find any marked bouys. We ended up anchoring in the area identified in the pilot and, as advised, booked by telephone the last table in the conservatory area of the restaurant. To build an appetite we walked out to the point overlooking Gairloch before having an exceptionally good meal of local prawns with all the tentacles and trimmings. The conservatory was small and overlooked the bay, but inside the restaurant was very claustrophobic and dingy so it’s best to book ahead.  

We eventually traced the two mooring bouys – one had a tender attached, the second was just a small pickup that did not have any markings. It left us with the opinion that they didn’t really want anyone to park there.

Day 24 – 27^th June – Badachro – 0 NM

Another day to “Chill out “ and we walked along the coastal road (hitch hiking where possible) to Redpoint Bay. The bay was quite worth the walk, as was the coffee at the pub at South Erradale. Many thanks to the locals that gave us lifts and to the local builder, who delayed his morning cycle ride to chat about the local area.  

Day 25 – 28^th June – Badachro to Loch Torriden (Loch Shieldaig) via upper Loch Torriden – 23.2 NM

Weighed anchor at 0930 for the trip around the headland and into Loch Torridon. Mary wanted to climb the Munro just NE of the entrance to the inner loch so our plan was to make best time and anchor in the bay beneath the hill. The wind had, for the first time, established itself as a south-westerly and was blowing an intermittent F3 or 4, dropping as we rounded the Redpoint headland to a S2 and warranting a few blasts with the engine.We anchored in inner Loch Torriden at 1322 and 3 hours later Mary returned with the hill unconquered. After a well needed cuppa we set off at 1740 for Loch Shieldaig, setting our anchor at 1805 off the village. After dinner we had a short trip ashore for a wander around the very pretty village followed by a leisurely pint in the local pub.  

Day 26 – 29^th June – Loch Shieldaig to Rona (Arcairsaig Mor) – 20.2 NM

Fellow Yotties at Flowerdale had recommended highly the Arcairsaig Mor on south Rona, so after a trip ashore for vital supplies we upped anchor at 0945 to motor out into Loch Torridon straight into a NW 4, setting sails at 1015 when we had sufficient sea room for a decent beat. The wind lasted until just southwest of the most northerly point of Rona and we motored the rest of the way, setting anchor in Arcairsaig Mhor at 1355.

After lunch we went to explore this brilliant island, meeting the two permanent residents as we landed. They were working hard to ensure that the island infrastructure was maintained and between them had built up a number of Yottie services that included toilets, showers and internet access and had a Bothy and 3 self catering cottages for those wishing to escape civilisation. Water was also available from the small pontoon.

The anchorage is very popular and frequently has anything up to a dozen boats, though there were only 5 the night we stayed. One of these was an old Danish barge that was used for skippered and catered sailing trips, and on board were a party of about 12 far eastern tourists who seemed to be enjoying the trip enormously.

Day 27 – 30^th June – Rona to Portree via Fladday – 11.3 NM

After a slow start and another wander around this superb island we upped anchor at midday and after clearing the rocky bits sailed very slowly out of the anchorage and into the Sound of Rassay. Our destination was Portree, all of 11 miles away, but we intended to go to Fladday for lunch, eventually anchoring in the southern anchorage at 1400.

Although we had intended to stay longer, the threatening clouds eventually encouraged us onwards, and we weighed anchor at 1515 and motored out into a flat calm sea. We were two miles short of Portree harbour when the heavens opened for our first real rain, really real, but it wasn’t long before we were moored up in Portree harbour.

We had intended to go ashore for a swim in the local pool but were too late so we watched the local pipe bands get thoroughly drenched in the Skye Pipe band competition. I’m sure that there were many drams sunk afterwards to ward off the soaking wet clothes and the rain eventually dried up about 2000. The pool was closed on Sunday.  

Day 28 – 1^st July – Portree to Raasay (Churchton Bay) – 8.6 NM

We woke up to bright sunshine and after getting supplies from the local Co-op we slipped our moorings at 1130. After filling up with water at the harbour pontoon weade way for Churchton Bay on South Rassay in a NE 3, picking up an old HIDB mooring in the bay shortly after 1330.  

After lunch we set out for a walk to the highest peaks of Rassay but never made it – the sunshine soon gave way to cloud and we just got back to the dinghy as the first spots of rain started to fall. It rained pretty solidly after that and with a lousy forecast for the foreseeable future we decided to make it back to Portree and take a break at home.  

Day 29 – 2^nd July – Raasay (Churchton Bay) to Portree – 8.6 NM

The rain eventually stopped as we tied up on a mooring in Portree and we rushed off to the Tourist Information Centre to find out if and when we could get a bus home. The only one that was viable had already left (1010 from Portree) so we bought a ticket for the following day, went swimming and then sorted the mooring.

The moorings are managed and maintained by the local authority in conjunction with local boat users and administered by the RNLI, who also collect all fees based on an “honesty” box arrangement. We eventually made a deal with the RNLI Bosun whereby a contribution to the RNLI of £50 would enough to pay for the mooring, and they would keep the dinghy secure in the loft in their building next to the harbour pontoon.

Day 30 – 3^rd July – Portree to Aberdour – 0 NM

The following morning we set out early to dump the dinghy and catch our bus. In all it took 7 hours to get to Queen Street station in Glasgow, and we just caught the Kirkaldy train directly home.  

Day 31 – 9^th July – Aberdour to Portree – 0 NM

We took the car to Fort William, leaving it next to the British Waterways offices at Corpach on the Caledonian Canal. It had been our intention to use the canal for the return trip home, and although by then we had decided that we would probably keep the boat on Loch Creran there was still a good possibility of us using the canal.

We arrived at Portree on time, retrieved our dinghy from the RNLI and were back on board for 1900. It had been a refreshing break.