Out of the Harbour and Turn Left

Day 32 – 10^th July – Portree to Plockton via Churchton bay and the Crowlin Islands – 24.1 NM

We had a lazy 1045 start in bright but misty conditions with a flat calm sea and visibility just about 1 mile. We motored out of the harbour keeping close as we dared to the southerly shoreline as we’d heard there was an eagle on the cliffs. Mary was very keen to see it but although we both kept our eyes skinned we only saw sea birds and the odd crow. We did, however, see a small school of Dolphins but they didn’t come very close.

The Crowlin Isles consist of two islands separated by a tidal channel running almost north-south between them, and makes for a well sheltered anchorage in most conditions. We arrived at 1550 for tea and a wander around the islands leaving at 1710. The wind had by this time picked up from the north F3/4 and we had a gentle sail into Plockton, picking up a harbour association mooring (one of about 12) at 1925.

Plockton is a delight, and we enjoyed to the most the fleshpots provided.

Day 33 – 11^th July – Plockton – 0 NM

A day to enjoy the environment, walk about a bit and have a leisurely pint. Chatted up the local fish merchant who advised us to buy direct from the fishermen any prawn tails and Squat Lobsters they may have and we managed a big bag for £5. Dinner that night was one to remember!

Day 34 – 12^th July – Plockton to Plockton, via Lochcarron – 14.2 NM

At 0935 we slipped our mooring and set off up the loch for Lochcarron in calm conditions, motoring the winding channel up the loch. By 1245 we negotiated the narrow channel between the islands offshore of Lochcarron village, following a bearing from the “shed with double green doors” as specified inhe pilot. The Martin Lawrence pilot book we have has not been updated for about 15 years and after looking at the photograph of the shed on the hillside we suddenly realised that the photograph was a mirror image of what it should be!

It had been our intent to stay in Lochcarron for the night as it’s a pleasant place, but where we were anchored was quite exposed. The proper anchorage area was full of moorings except for the shallow exposed southern edge and with the forecast of “West backing SE F6” we decided to move back to Plockton instead. We upped anchor at 1630 anchoring alongside the ABC boat Calloo, the Owers Moody 31, at 1805.

Day 35 – 13^th July – Plockton – 0 NM

Had a day exploring further the environs around Plockton with the Owers, and ended the day listing to a group of Fiddlers in the local pub. Grand evening, great company and superb real ale.

Day 36 – 14^th July – Plockton to Totaig, Loch Duich (opp. Eilean Donan castle) – 15.3 NM

Today we planned to go through Kyle Akin and under the new Skye bridge, then up Loch Alsh to Totaig (Ob Aoinidh), an anchorage in a small bay SW of Eilean Donan castle at the entrance to Loch Duich.

According to the pilot its difficult to predict what is really going to happen at Kyle Akin as the flow patterns are dictated by wind conditions and vary enormously between neaps and springs.

Our plan, as best we could plan it without intimate local knowledge, was to catch the end of the east going flow under the bridge, hit slack water at the westerly extremes of Loch Alsh and then pick up the easterly flow up to Loch Duich after the tide turned.  

We set off set off at 0935 in a flat calm, putting up the sails as soon as we had cleared the shallows north of Plockton, though without sufficient wind we motor sailed on until a NNW F3/4 came out of nowhere. At 1040 we were flying along at 7 knots and having difficulty in holding the wheel, and at 1100 we had two reefs in the main as the wind was now gusting F6. As soon as we passed the bridge it dropped considerably and we had a leisurely sail to our anchorage, arriving at 1340.

Totaig is a brilliant anchorage, and a very busy otter and numerous Herons who nest all over the area entertained us. In the evening we had a walk to the nearest village in the vain hope that there may be a Phone Box and Hostelry for some liquid refreshment, but there was nothing. Instead we took lots of Eilean Donan photographs for Mary’s work colleagues in Croatia, who all have Eilean Donan screen savers on their computers. They now have a few other options to choose from

Day 37 – 15^th July - Totaig to Loch Hourn via Glenelg and Oronsay – 23.6 NM

Our plan is to pass south through Kyle Rhea, and we need to get the timing right as it is a Spring tide. High water slack is approximately 0830, with a potential peak current at mid tide of 8 knots 3 hours later, so we plan to pass through the Kyle as near as possible to slack water. We left Totaig at 0755 in a SW F2 and made the Kyle on target at 0835. We motored rather than sailed down the channel, and once clear sailed to Glenelg, anchoring at 1012 for a short trip ashore and coffee. The village is pretty but uninspiring on a Sunday.At 1110 we weighed anchor and set sail for Isleoronsay, and with a SW F1/2 we straggled along making more way with the tide than with the wind. 

Day 38 – 16^th July – Loch Hourn to Inverie (Loch Nevis) – 14.4 NM

Today’s trip was to move from one east-west loch to the next one to the south, and our only plan featured a trip with the tide down the Sound of Sleat. The winds were, we suspected, really NE about F3, but just swept straight down the loch. We set sail at 0910 and sailed on a broad reach out along the southerly side of the loch, picking up a northerly wind in the Sound of Sleat that remained with us all the way into Inverie, where we picked up a Forge Restaurant mooring at 1335. I was really looking forward to eating at the Forge that night as the last time I was at Inverie I had simply the best seafood I’d ever eaten - I had been looking forward to this day the entire trip.

Ashore we booked a table for ourselves and for Ian and Lorna Owers, who were planning to join us later and then went walkabout to the local smallholding that grew the organic foods used in the area. For £1 we managed a huge bag of salads, (with at least 15 different varieties of leaves) and a large punnet of raspberries for £2. The smallholding is about a mile from the harbour and well worth visiting. 

Sadly, the meal in The Forge was one of the biggest disappointments I’ve ever had – it was rubbish.

Day 39 – 17^th July - Inverie to Soay Harbour via Armadale – 27.8 NM

We waved goodbye to the Owers and set off at 0940 in a flat calm to Armadale, and after filling the water tanks picked up a mooring in the harbour at 1125. Our sortie ashore for vittles and lunch found us in the local Church Hall listening to an electronic bagpipe accompanied by violin while consuming a bowl of homemade soup. It was the Skye music festival, celebrated in Ardvasar with a Music Café. The soup was great …

We bought our vittles and wandered around the sights, which didn’t take long – we slipped anchor at 1455 and out into a flat calm Sound of Sleat. We rounded the Sleat Point at 1605 and at 1635 a NW F3 gave us a brilliant sail to our target destination – Soay Harbour.

We had about a mile to run when we suddenly noticed a ketch that had just left the harbour about 300 metres away. On board were three souls all of whom were waving madly at us, dismissed by a quick wave from us before we concentrated on navigating into the harbour, and we thought nothing more of the incident until later that evening. We navigated the tight, shallow channel into the northern harbour, anchoring at 1940.

After a drink with fellow sailors anchored alongside and dinner we were just waiting for the weather forecast on the VHF when we were hailed in a very posh voice by someone from a vessel called Solasgeir asking if there was any room in the Harbour. I replied there was plenty, intrigued by who these people were, and it was only when the boat got within 50 metres did I realise it was Colin Whimster, ABC Vice Commodore with his cousin and ABC’s John Henderson! The world is a small place as is the west coast.

Day 40 – 18^th July – Soay Harbour – 0 NM

Over coffee the next morning (Brodies of course) the unanswered question of how they knew where we were was answered – they were the ones waving to us as we arrived. They had been en route to Loch Scavaig, reported to be one of the most spectacular anchorages in the UK for location and squalls from the hills, and just a few miles away on Skye. There they had tried and failed to find space amongst the many boats at anchor, most of whom were taking part in the Classic Malts Cruise en route to Loch Harport for the second party and distillery, Talisker.We had seen several of these boats already, with one at anchor in Soay harbour and another just outside. In Loch Nevis there had been at least 4 boats taking part and we were advised that Canna, our planned destination for the day, would probably be exceptionally crowded, as it is just a short trip from there to Loch Harport.

After coffee we thanked them and left them to make their way to Loch Nevis, deciding to stay and explore Soay for the day. It’s a brilliant island, although sadly there are only a couple of families left living there. For them and other visitors the old school has been converted into a small community centre come museum, with council-run library book cartons (with library books) available along with snooker and table tennis – in fact more facilities than we’ve seen in most other places we’ve visited.